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Re: Wargame Miniatures
Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 8:20 am
by Chozon1
ArcticFox wrote:Yeah I suppose since there hasn't been any fluff to contradict the 666 chapter number, it technically would still count, though nobody refers to chapter numbers anywhere, ever. I couldn't tell you what chapter number the Black Templars ever were, if it was even established.
Admittedly, I emphasize that because I'm not really comfortable with that number being used for anything, especially the fluff of a chapter that's composed entirely of the Warhammer 40K equivalent of Paladins.
I have a few GKs I've been thinking about using as a secondary detachment to my BT force.
The deuce. I love the idea of an army formed solely to fight demons. That and their low model count is what attracted me to them. But I was put off by their number.
Though, as Wintercross says, they do look pretty amazing too. I love the Halbards.
Re: Wargame Miniatures
Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 3:00 pm
by Wintercross
Chozon1 wrote:ArcticFox wrote:Yeah I suppose since there hasn't been any fluff to contradict the 666 chapter number, it technically would still count, though nobody refers to chapter numbers anywhere, ever. I couldn't tell you what chapter number the Black Templars ever were, if it was even established.
Admittedly, I emphasize that because I'm not really comfortable with that number being used for anything, especially the fluff of a chapter that's composed entirely of the Warhammer 40K equivalent of Paladins.
I have a few GKs I've been thinking about using as a secondary detachment to my BT force.
The deuce. I love the idea of an army formed solely to fight demons. That and their low model count is what attracted me to them. But I was put off by their number.
Though, as Wintercross says, they do look pretty amazing too. I love the Halbards.
Yeah, those Halberds are really cool. The wrist mounted stormbolters also really stand out.
Re: Wargame Miniatures
Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 4:14 pm
by ArcticFox
Here's a tip that has worked REALLY well for me when painting Grey Knights. Use Testors Metalizer spray paint as your base. It makes them look like brushed steel and you can actually buff it if you want it shinier. I once did a squad like that and it turned out AMAZING. I'll see if I can find pics of them.
Edit: Here you go. This is what the Metalizer looks like:

Re: Wargame Miniatures
Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 4:34 pm
by ccgr
nice work (and tip!)
Re: Wargame Miniatures
Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 4:49 pm
by ArcticFox
thankya
Re: Wargame Miniatures
Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:50 am
by Chozon1
Those look great! ^_^ That looks like true metal.
Actually, I'd LOVE to apply that finish to my warjacks. O_o They would look amazing. Do you apply that in place of primer, or over your primer?
Re: Wargame Miniatures
Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2015 2:08 pm
by ArcticFox
Thanks!
I sprayed it as a layer over black primer.
Re: Wargame Miniatures
Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 6:20 am
by Chozon1
Nice. Well, that's going on my list next time I paint up a Warjack. I bet I could do some cool battle damage effects too.
Re: Wargame Miniatures
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2015 2:34 pm
by ArcticFox
Dude I've been beating my head against the wall trying to figure out a way to get a sooty, burnt look in the area around the flamethrower on one of my warjacks that's equipped with one. I have been thinking about trying graphite brushed on and sealed. Battle damage is amazingly hard to pull off convincingly which is why I usually avoid it. If you find a good way, please please please share it so I can learn from you.
That said, one way to make good looking chipped paint is to paint the model normally, and add light flecks of white or silver* to edges and surface bumps. I did a little of that with a Black Templars Dreadnought and it looks pretty decent. When the model is done I'll post it.
*You'd use silver for smaller scale models like wargame minis or like a 1:48 scale car. For larger models like large aircraft or ships, white looks better.
Re: Wargame Miniatures
Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 8:04 am
by Chozon1
I was thinking a basecoat of the metalizer, drybrushed with red and brown to resemble slightly rusty metal, and then sealing it. After that, putting small patches of PVA glue on various spots where I wanted the rusty metal to show, then painted like normal. That way after painting, shading, highlighting, ETC, i can peel/file the glue off and reveal the metalized portions. Dunno if it would work though. I'd need to test first, ideally. If it didn't work, I think I'd just put on a slightly heavier layer of my base coat, then gently hit the areas I wanted to show with an emery board. I'm really excited over the idea, actually. I want to get a warjack so I can test it out. XD
Sadly, I don't have a lot of fire in my army...On my Space Hulk terminator's flamer, I just painted it as normal, and gently dry brushed straight up black on the end of the barrel, lessening it by short degrees as I moved back. I dunno if you'd call it convincing, but I actually like it. I can try to get a close up if you want to see it.
I'd love to figure out how to give it the tempering effect, simply to know. But I don't know if I'd ever go to that much detail on a small model. O_o
Re: Wargame Miniatures
Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:14 pm
by ArcticFox
Yeah it would be great to see that flamer up close. I have a technique I use but if yours looks better I'll try it instead. What I do is paint the tip flat black and then fade it to a brown behind it to give it that rusty look like you see on car exhaust where the protective coating on the metal has been cooked off.
Using PVA glue as a mask can be tricky but I've had good results using it when painting the clear canopies on fighter models. One other thing you can do to simulate paint that has chipped off a lot is to paint the model the undercoat color and let it dry, then splatter/dab toothpaste on it here and there, especially on ridges and raised areas. Then, paint it with the top layer. Once that's fully dry, gently wash the model. The places where the toothpaste is covered will come off, revealing the under color.
I tried this on a Soviet T-34 tank for Bolt Action and it seemed to work decently well. I wanted it to look like a tank that had originally been green, but was painted over with white for the winter months. Of course, the white paint chips off from normal wear and tear and will reveal the green underneath and that was what I was going for. The model isn't done but if you're interested I'll post some progress pics of it.
Re: Wargame Miniatures
Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 7:48 am
by Chozon1
Aggravatingly, I think I took a better picture of my finger than my flamer. Not that it's not a nice finger. Also aggravatingly, the effect seems to have faded or been wiped off over time, and you can see a better example on the other terminators Storm bolter. I need to seal my minis, I think.
Also, I would love that. ^_^ I've heard of that effect before, and I would love to see an example.
Re: Wargame Miniatures
Posted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 9:52 pm
by ArcticFox
Very cool. I like the effect. Very lifelike.
Here's that T-34 with the toothpaste masked paint chips. Bolt Action is a 28mm game.

Re: Wargame Miniatures
Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 12:32 am
by Wintercross
That paint chip effect looks pretty good
Re: Wargame Miniatures
Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 2:36 am
by ccgr
Wow! nice work!